Settle in, this is a long one.
A week and a half ago, I readied myself for my latest (and long overdue) trip to NYC. I was headed up to visit L, and we had planned quite a weekend for ourselves. And, as per usual for me, it started out with a delayed flight. Dad: "I will never fly with you." Honestly, I can't blame him. But I spent the delay as any good traveler should: at the bar!
Despite my delayed landing, we rose early on Friday morning to head up to Hunter for our zip lining adventures. We had gone back and forth about whether we would zip line or sky dive; I had been zip lining but not skydiving; L was the other way around. Eventually, because these misadventures were her idea, we went with zip lining.
So we headed out Friday morning and picked our way through the traffic and arrived at Hunter with about 10 minutes to spare. We were fitted for our harnesses and helmets, signed away our lives, and hopped on the ski lift which would take us up the hill.
L (hiding in the shadows) and me
The lovely view (and what happens if a zipper doesn't make it all the way to the end of the line)
We had a blast! The first line was the longest, at over 3,000 feet. It's a little too bad it's the first one, because you're thinking so hard at all the things the guides told you you had to remember, so you do a little less enjoying of the view than you otherwise might. Each of the five lines in our tour was a little bit different in setup: some you had to cannonball on the way down to pick up speed, some you wanted to spread out to slow yourself down, one you got to spin around and do whatever you wanted, because the end point was in the middle, so you just slid back down the other side and climbed down a ladder, rather than worrying about slamming into the ending platform. And on top of it all, it was a stunning day, and being outside was the best place to be.
Although afterwards, L did say we should have gone sky diving. Next time!
We made it back to Jersey City and picked up L's boyfriend J, then headed off to
Park and Sixth Gastropub for dinner. I have known L for a long time, but I had no idea she had such an obsession with fries! We got an order of garlic fries as an appetizer for the table, and she couldn't keep her hands off the fries that came with J's entree. For my part, I had the salmon special (a variation of the salmon on the
menu) and a Moscow Mule to sate my thirst. The verdict: tasty and reasonably priced.
The NYC skyline from Jersey City (and a little teeny sailboat that's hard to find even if you know what you're looking for)
Saturday we did the most touristy of all things: went to the top of the Empire State Building. In all the times that I've been to NYC, and for all the years that L has lived there (and she works just two blocks from the Empire), neither of us have ever been up to the observation decks! Well we took care of that by taking in the stunning views on a stunning day, with stunningly few lines!
Did you know there are 40 miles of NYPL book stacks underneath Bryant Park?
Each bracket is stamped with identifying letters. Apparently this one has changed locations.
The lobby
The lobby ceiling, which took I think a month two do originally, and two years to reconstruct later
We didn't really have a plan for the remainder of the afternoon, but we did have an early dinner reservation, so we just started wandering south. We came to Madison Square Park, which was hosting
Mad. Sq. Eats. We both got deliciously refreshing drinks and kept wandering . . . until we found more food, in the form of the
Union Square Greenmarket! I got another refreshing drink (all that walking will make a gal thirsty), and L got a tasty chocolate bergamot muffin. We found a shady bench and watched the people go by until we felt like wandering some more.
Root vegetables at the greenmarket
And boy, we were unprepared for what we found in Washington Square Park. There was a guy set up with a piano, but we walked past as we entered because he wasn't playing. But then he started Beethoven's
Moonlight Sonata, and how can you not listen to that? We turned back to find a spot on a bench, and wandered down a side walkway. Oddly, in the middle of the afternoon, there was a rat in the middle of the walkway.
We sat and looked, and it became clear that the rat was sick or injured. Its breathing was very shallow, and flies were swarming all around. It had a bloody foot. We weren't there more than 30 seconds, trying to figure out what to do, when my new girl crush came by.
She was dressed like she was straight out of the 50's: a navy romper with white polka dots, wedge espadrilles, a curly bob, bright red lipstick, and a structured handbag. She saw the rat, put her purse on the ground nearby and started digging through it. Then she went over to the nearest trash can looking for something. Whatever she was looking for, she didn't find.
"Does anyone have a plastic bag?" One guy was out walking his dog, but the - ahem - doggie bags were too thin for her purposes. Another guy happened to have a couple of plastic grocery bags, but he held them hostage until she answered his questions:
"What do you want them for?"
"I'm going to break his neck."
"You're what?"
"He's suffering, and he's going to die. I'm going to put him out of his misery."
"How do you know what to do?"
"I work in a lab with rats, and I've had to do this before when something goes wrong."
"What do you do?"
"I'm a neuroscientist."
Of course she is. I love her.
Eventually, he gave her the bags, and she did just what she said. She layered the bags, grabbed the rat, let him stop squirming, got a firm grip, and twisted -- hard. We were all transfixed. L shed a few tears.
Needing a change of pace, we decided to have our palms read by the elderly Japanese woman sitting near the arch. Things I was told about myself:
- I'm stubbornly independent;
- I'm a good communicator (?);
- I'm fated for two chances at love -- both at ages that already passed.
Well. So much for my neuroscientist. Or anybody else, for that matter.
Upon the completion of my palm reading / dream crushing, we had to get moving to dinner. L wanted to go back to a place called
Aldea that she had been to once before. It was an excellent choice, because everything about our meal was spectacular.
We had an early reservation (5:30) because we had an evening engagement, so we were the first customers when they opened. But they were ready for us, warm bread, cold cocktails, and all. Speaking of cocktails, I had the
Penny Lane, and it was delightful.
First, we were treated with an amuse bush: a toasted rice cracker with cucumber chutney (mine had yogurt, L's was dairy-free). For dinner, L and I split the
Alaskan king crab appetizer. It was delicious, with a couple of little candied flowers on top that opened up your sinuses so you could really taste the delicate crab. My entree was the arroz de pato, and L had the Colorado lamb ribs and braised shoulder. It was all quite tasty, but the braised shoulder probably won the evening. We skipped dessert (although I would have loved to try the yogurt and almond cake), but did get little tasters from the kitchen: an egg custard tart for me, and a gluten-free passion fruit jelly for L. The verdict: worth every penny.
Then, to the
ballet! We hopped the train uptown and disembarked at Lincoln Center, which is a busy place on a Saturday evening! Our show of choice was the
Stravinsky & Balanchine production, and it was a stunner. I especially loved the
Monumentum Pro Gesualdo and the
Duo Concertant, the latter of which told an amazing story with lighting. Prior to the show and during the two intermissions, we explored Koch Hall and took in the view of the rest of Lincoln Center from the balcony.
Metropolitan Opera House
Avery Fischer Hall and the fountain
Inside Koch Theater
Sunday morning I finally went for the run I promised myself I would take, and it's a good thing I did because then we went to
Shopsin's for brunch. Shopsin's, folks, is unlike anywhere I've ever eaten.
It's hard to find. It's actually
inside the Essex Market hall, way at the south end. And if you're looking for a restaurant, you're probably overthinking it. Look for a couple of tables instead. Plan to wait. We were the second group in line and waited about 45 minutes. Remember, they don't seat parties of more than four, so don't even think about inviting all your friends.
That time in line is not wasted, however. Despite having all that time (less my run to get a cup of coffee) to review the
extensive and insane menu, none of us had decided what we wanted to order by the time we were seated. (J came alone, as did one of my former coachees.) I ended up getting the #12 Silvercup Breakfast Stack. I didn't really know what to expect. Here's what I got: all those things actually come in a giant silver cup, which is plopped down in the middle of the plate. Even once I had it, I wasn't totally sure how to eat it. I ate out of the top of the cup for about 1/3 of the volume, then just upended the entire thing onto the plate. It seemed like a good idea at the time, and frankly still does.
The one waiter who was working the six small tables and three bar stools was the quintessential angry New Yorker, with a black bandana on his head and a Megadeath t-shirt. Heaven forbid we ask for a clean fork when someone dropped one on the floor, or a refill on the coffee! The verdict: overpriced, but fun to do on occasion.
And that (as if that weren't enough) was it. Time to head home.
